Sunday, September 11, 2011

Buckler S/S 2012

There’s a certain amount of flair inherent in an Andrew Buckler collection that comes from his ability to add his own flourishes to classic silhouettes.  It also didn’t hurt that the British designer paraded his presentation of sporty streetwear literally on the street, converting a section of NYC’s Meatpacking District into a cobblestoned runway.  The outdoor staging accentuated several of Mr. Buckler’s design influences for the season, namely the steel- and iron-work in New York architecture and industrial America as shown by photographers like Lewis Hine.  This Buckler collection brings together the precision of the former and the grittiness of the latter.  Sharply tailored blazers and angle-zip jackets are paired with knee length shorts or denim in various states of distress.  Trousers have a more relaxed fit and are rolled above the ankle.  Hoods abound; sometimes they’re sculptural (as on a white and gray striped sweatshirt), but more often they flow as detachable swaths of jersey worn with a leather jacket or as an independent accessory.  

Primarily natural fibers (in particular, linen and cotton) are used to full effect in crafting comfortable looks that maintain their edge.  In much the same way, a muted palette of grays, blues, blacks, and beiges adds an air of seriousness befitting the industrial American laborer.  Mr. Buckler, who comes from a family of architects, understands the importance of simplicity in design, and the effectiveness of this Buckler collection is in its ability to find subtle ways to inject a little swagger into traditional forms.


Photos: GQ.

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